1608 First Ave., between 83rd & 84th St., New York, NY
Phone: (212) 327-4700, Fax: (212) 327-4747
Cuisine: Classic Italian
Owner’s: Milan Licul, Omer Grgurev, Freddie Grgurev, Branko Turcinovic
Seating Capacity: Bar: 20
Main Dining Room: 65
Hours of Operation: Dinner: Monday-Sunday, 6:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Lunch & Brunch Sat. & Sunday
Bar: Monday-Sunday, 6:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Price Range: Appetizers: $8.25 – $13.50. Pasta: $16.75-$21.25
Entrées: $23.95 – $32.25. (Whole Fish, Market Price)
Wines: An eclectic and fine selection, including Italian, American, French & The World. 8 Wines By The Glass: $8-$8.50. Bottle Range: $38-$225. Good Selection $50 & Under.
Credit Cards: American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Discover
Reservations: Recommended for Dining Room
Review By Nancy Walman
The space that previously housed a haute French restaurant (La Fourchette), an upmarket wine-bar-cum-restaurant (a branch of the successful Merchants NY) and Aïgo, which featured pan-Mediterranean cuisine, has now found its true calling. Now five years old, One83 gets our vote as one of the best classic Italian restaurants on the Upper East Side, with prices a notch below its competitors. Its four owners are responsible for some of Manhattan’s most solid Italian restaurants and the remake of Delmonico’s. Service is far more polished than one encounters in this class of restaurant. From the front of the house, to waiters and busboys, everyone seems to be doing something — and — doing it well.
Housed in a colorful space that evokes the true spirit of Italy, One83 has a warm and inviting interior with an array of midnight and sky blues, and copper and golden hues. The 65-seat dining room is complemented by light woods and multi-level suede squares that line the ceiling and are the color of the deep blue Mediterranean sky. The restaurant also offers al fresco dining in a lovely garden blooming with fresh greens and flowers.
Such appetizers as imported prosciutto, asparagus and the finest mozzarella available will delight you, as will a fritto misto of fried calamari, shrimp, cod and zucchini in a zesty tomato sauce. All pasta dishes can be ordered in half portions. Standouts include homemade linguini with fresh clams, Italian bacon, chilies and white wine and fettuccine with baby sweet peas and an aromatic meat sauce.
Entrees, often a letdown at NY Italian restaurants, excel at One83. You’ll love wild king salmon, encrusted with herbs in a lemon-chardonnay sauce and “long bone” veal chop in Barolo wine sauce. Remy Djelosevic, the charming restaurant manager and captain, will select the perfect bottle and there are fine wines by the glass starting at $10 as well as an excellent bar. Service is polished and personal.
Desserts are light and refreshing or sinfully rich. Whatever you choose, be sure to include the mixed berries in a cold Zabaglione sauce and the especially memorable Italian cheesecake. Wonderful coffee and biscotti are lovely conclusions. ONE83, 1608 First Ave., between 83rd & 84th St., is an island of civility, a personal favorite and rates A Major on The Walman Report.
Copyright 2009 By Punch In International. All Rights Reserved.
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